| it was Ford's subtle references to Japan, inspired | | | | ironically, in a city that's more grey than Armani's |
| by 1920s kimonos, that were costume spiderman | | | | collection and wetter than Lawrence Steele's, |
| the most interesting - and a trend that proved to | | | | designers decided spider man costume that winter |
| be one of the biggest all week. Gucci's obi belt - | | | | was the perfect time to wear shorts (velvet at |
| next season's must-have - that wrapped around | | | | Emporio Armani, knitted at Miu Miu, and corduroy |
| bomber jackets and duster coats was echoed at | | | | hot pants at Missoni) and summery chiffon |
| Strenesse, whose inky-blue satin dresses had | | | | dresses. At Marni they were printed and appliqued |
| quilted cotton obis and kimono sleeves; at Krizia, in | | | | with streamers of chiffon trailing, and at Alberta |
| black satin kimono-sleeved tops; and at Bally, | | | | Ferretti they had a dishevelled Miss Havisham chic. |
| where bands of leather were wrapped around the | | | | But the Italians worked around this problem with |
| waist and tied at the front of bitter- chocolate | | | | fur - by the truckload. From collars and stoles to |
| wool kimono coats edged in leather. Ford's | | | | huge blanket coats and Gucci's fur-covered |
| oversized coats had a distinctive 1920s Paul Poiret | | | | runway, the stuff was literally flying. |
| vibe, but fused with his Chrissie Hind rock -chic, | | | | Surprisingly, in a climate in which fashion designers |
| they took on a different flavour. | | | | are feeling the pinch and would normally plunge |
| It's these dresses that lead nicely to the question | | | | into past and more prosperous eras, any retro |
| that has been on everyone's lips this week: are | | | | references were very subtle all round. |
| these not the autumn/winter collections? Because, | | | | |