Merida, The White City

Few cities around the world can feel proud of themust begin by introducing the Jarana Yucateca
hospitality and warmth of their people, of the(Yucatecan Revelry). Do not be alarmed by the
unique respect for tradition but open-mindednessliteral translation of the word Jarana (revelry). In
for the modern, and their overall love for culture.fact, revelry refers to rowdiness, commotion, or
Merida is one such city and you must see it tohubbub. The Jarana is a typical dance that has
believe that such a place exists.been around for generations. It is considered to
Before becoming what it is today, Merida wasbe a fusion between Mayan and Spanish culture.
known as Ichcaansiho or its abbreviation T'Ho'.This dance was actually introduced during colonial
Ichcaansiho means Five Hills in the Mayan dialect.times and people keep dancing it to this day.
The Five Hills was in references to the fiveWithout noticing you will become enthralled by the
pyramids that had been an important part of thejoyfulness of the music and the elegance of the
Mayan civilization. During its time, T'Ho' was asteps and dancers' movements.
Mayan central city filled with an array of MayanAnother staple of the Jarana dance is the outfits
activities, but by the time the Spaniards arrived (inworn by the performers. Women wear what is
the 16th century) it was already abandoned.known as they typical "hipil yucateco" or "el terno
When the Spaniards arrived only 200 huts madede gala," meaning dress suit. They must also wear
out of palms remained and in them resided awhite high heel shoes and a shawl known was
group of malnourished natives. It was three"Rebozo de Santa Maria." The men wear white dril
Spanish explorers along with one hundred Spanishtrouser (much like white jeans), a white
families the ones who settled in what was thenguayabera (a lightweight, button-down shirt with
old Mayan ruins. Its official date of formation isshort sleeves, one or two sets of patch pockets,
noted as January 6, 1542 and the founder, wasand decorated with an elaborate embroidery
known as Francisco de Montejo y Leon "El Mozo"made out of silk or linen), a woven hat, red
(The Young Man), named it Merida after the citybandana tucked in one of the pants' pockets, and
of the same name in Spain.sandals. When you visit, you will have a great
It was very affluent families the ones thatmany opportunities to witness this cultural
established the city and thus, had walls builtspectacle. This Jarana dance is accompanied by an
around it to keep the native indigenous people"Orquesta Jaranera" also locally known as
outside and to protect it from possible Mayan"charanga." It is typically comprised of clarinets,
uprisings. Interestingly, Merida was one of the fewtrumpets, trombones, timbals, saxhorn and a
cities in Mexico that was completely enclosed byguiro. Today, the saxhorn has been replaced by a
walls. Equally interesting is the fact that the stonessaxophone and a bass has been added. But the
from the old Mayan ruins were used to build neworquestra is not exclusive to the Jarana dance.
houses and perhaps even the walls. These colonialYou can also find the orquestra in local city
buildings and parts of the wall can still be seenfiestas, spreading the joyful music in vaquerias
today in the historic part of Merida, which is(like rodeos), or in the bullfights.
located right in the center of the city. At this pointDon't worry about missing out on the fun! For
it is important to mention that Merida earned theinstance, every Monday there are Vaquerias, or
nickname of "Ciudad Blanca" meaning White Citypopular parties with presentations of regional
due to the buildings being painted white using "cal"dances, at the Bajos del Palacio Municipal (at the
or "lime." As you will see, the city expanded farMunicipal Palace). If you'd like to indulge in some
beyond the once-protecting walls.'40s style music then go to Parque de Santiago
The 19th century propelled Merida onto the(Santiago's Park) on a Tuesday night. On
business industry with the production andThursday evening you must witness a folkloric
distribution of henequen, which are agave leavescelebration of song, dance, and poetry known as
and are used to make ropes and even liquor. ThisSerenata Yucateca (Yucatecan Serenade) taking
became known as the "green gold." This increasedplace at Parque de Santa Lucia (Saint Lucia's Park).
the wealth of the city and many more wealthyIf you're looking for good-ol-family fun then visit
families moved here. Today, the houses of thesethe event titled En El Corazon de Merida (In the
millionaire families still remain in almost impeccableHeart of Merida), where they closed several
conditions. In fact, they're mostly found one afterstreets and have family events and
the other down Merida's main avenue, Paseo deentertainment. There's nothing better than going
Montejo. This same century gave way to ato the Noche Mexicana (Mexican Night) on a
"French Wave" of arquitecture, where mostSaturday night. Here you'll see art exhibitions and
mansions and streets were designed after theyou'll be able buy crafts among other souveneers.
spacious avenues found in Paris.After enjoying the musical displays you'll surely
Language is extremely important in Merida; thewaken your appetitie. Well, lucky you! Merida is
Spanish used in Merida is quite differently thandistinguished for its culinary delicacies. If you like
that used elsewhere in Mexico. Merida has retainedbarbecue pork, I recommend the Mayan
most of the Spanish accent as well as the MayanYucatecan version called Poc Chuc. Queso Relleno
dialect. As a matter of fact, today there are(Stuffed Cheese) is considered a gourmet dish
academies dedicated to teaching and exploring thecomposed of ground pork inside a carved cheese
Mayan language. So don't be alarmed when you'reball with tomatoe sauce. Another traditional dish is
strolling through the streets of this great city anda lime/chicken soup with shredded chicken and
hear people switch from Mayan to perfecttortillas called Sopa de Lima. Another pork delicacy
Spanish. You'll easily recognize the Mayan languageis Cochinita Pibil and it is the most famous of the
because of its strong use of the letter "x," whichYucatecan dishes. Indeed it is the spices, such as
makes a harsh "sh" sound, along with strongachiote, cinnamon, allspice berries, cloves, oregano,
vowel use.sea salt, peppercorns, cuin seed, and garlic, what
The importance of the city can be noted due to itmake these and an innumerable amount of other
being host to Pope John Paul II in Agust 1993,typical dishes so incredibly delicious. A few popular
two Mexico-US conferences (between Bill Clintonplaces to enjoy all these delicious plates are: Los
and Vicente Fox and most recently George W.Almendros (The Almond Tree), El Fogoncito (The
Bush and Felipe Calderon), and two verySmall Furnace), El Argentino (The Argentinean), La
important science competitions.Vibora de la Mar (The Serpent of the Sea, named
Earlier we spoke of the wealthy colonial mansions,after a popular children's game), and La Habichuela
which remain today. Some of these have been(The Kidney Bean).
converted into businesses including restaurants,Some cultural centers you'll truly enjoy include
museums, and hotels. Lucky for you, you'll haveCentro Cultural Andres Quintana Roo (Cultural
the opportunity to stay at one of these historicCenter) where there's an array of galleries and
and quite authentic 19th century haciendas.often hosts artistic events; Casa de la Cultural del
Hacienda Temozon Sur, Hacienda San Jose Cholul,Mayab (House of the Mayab Culture) which
Hacienda Xcanatun, and Hacienda Santa Rosa depresents a multitude of handcrafts. If Museums is
Lima have all become hotels. Not only are thesewhat you like then you have to visit the Museo
situated right in the center of Merida, but it'll reallyde Historia Natural (Natural History Museum),
give you an opportunity to experience whatMuseo de Arte Contemporaneo Ateneo de
might've been to reside at one of theseYucatan, MACAY, (Museum of Contemporary
haciendas. It's almost like staying at a museum.Art); and Museo de la Cancion Yucateca (Museum
Without argument, Merida is one of the wealthiestof the Yucatecan Song) dedicated to typical
cities in Mexico when it comes to culture. WeYucatecan music and authors.