Passeggiata along the Arno

align="center">frescoes in Florence. A work which visitors
sometimes miss on a short stay.
Everywhere in Italy the hours of passeggiata areAt the end of the Ponte Vecchio on the other
a daily pleasure, when people spill into the streetsside of the river Arno from the Uffizi (Oltrarno)
to walk, shop, gossip and show themselves offthere is a little church called Santa Felicita,
before dinner. Florence, though, has one of thefelicitously named. It is a lovely little baroque
most beautiful frameworks for the passeggiata inchurch, usually free of tourists. Take a moment
the whole country, the sidewalks on both sides ofand a deep breath to enjoy the incense, the
the Arno. Sometime between the hours of 4 andquiet, the high windows. Then turn to where a
8, depending on the season, everyone who canreal delight lurks is the small chapel on your right
get out of the house or leave their shop oras you’ve entered, the Capponi chapel.
business, flocks to the side of the river, to theFeed a Euro into the machine by the grill and the
streets called lungarni, (translates simply aslights will come on and reveal the incredible
“along the arno”) where the latemannerist frescoes of the Deposition by
afternoon sun glints off the windows and castsPontormo. The light machine also gives you
the rippling facades of the building onto the heavyaccess to an audio recording describing the fresco
reflective surface of the river. The gorgeousin several language but I wouldn’t bother.
afternoon light and shadows, the pinks andJust stand there and enjoy, amazed, those the
oranges of the sky along the low hills, and theintense, sherbert and icecream colors, the wild
palest blue overhead turn the walk into a time ofand crazy line of this style, which took the high
intensely shared enjoyment, like a public fireworksrennaisance into the delightful eccentricities and
display, but these fireworks muted and slowexcess known as mannerism. The mourning
changing.figures have a strange dreaminess, packed as
Men and women walk along arm in arm, or pausethey are in a wildly serpentine composition of
in the middle of the bridges to look up riverbodies wear bright pastel colored tunics that
towards the Ponte Vecchio or down river to theresemble ballet leotards. They don’t
distant snowy Appenines, or stop and lean outseem to be paying attention to the central figure
over the balustrades trying to catch a picture. Webut gaze out, almost as if surprised at their own
have all seen photographs of the river in this light,extremely rendered beauty. On the right next to
the beautifully named bridges, Ponte Trinita, Pontethe window is Pontormo’s Annunziata,
Vecchio and Ponte Carraia, each one framing thewith the gentle looking madonna turning towards
reflection of the other, the variations of color inus. Just glimpsing her makes your stay in Florence
the strips of water between them, the V- shapedworth while.
ripples caused by the currents rushing against theDon’t stay too long, gazing, though,
bridges arched supports. However photographsbecause you don’t want to miss the
and paintings, pretty as they might be, cannotafternoon light. Now step out of the little church
catch the sensation of being part of thisand turn left along the narrow street known as
communal passeggiata. It is in the sound of theBorgo San Jacopo. Stroll to the end of this street
rushing water, the cheerful, affectionate voicesand then turn right and walk the half blcok down
calling to each other, the teasing of the youngto the river (don’t forget to notice the
men and squeals of kids, the roar of thewonderful little fountain at the end of this street.
motorcycles. It is in the fresh shaking of air fromAha. You come out, the light is even more
the waterfalls, the smell of the mud, and thebeautiful, and as it fades the sky turns an intense
sense of moving through beauty as much asblue. Passeggiata accompli.
looking at it that makes this passeggiata such aFrom here to get back to the UNA Hotel you
delight. Whenever I am in Florence and thecross back and stroll along, enjoying the park that
weather is good I feel very restless and agitatedlines the river. Plenty of time for a glass of
during these hours if I am forced to stay inside.sparkling Prosecco, before dinner.
I’ll find any excuse to set my workCross Ponte Trinita, taking in the view upriver and
aside or hustle visitors and houseguests down todown, starting to come into its full beauty. On the
the river. Even when it has been rainy or gray allother side walk half a block down and turn left
day there can be a sudden, surprising shift of lightinto the church of Santa Trinita. The frescoe.
at this hour as the sun sinks below the clouds andStep back out, glancing across the street. There,
leans against the city.the building that is now Ferragamo, is the same
If you have a limited time in Florence you canbuilding that the little boy was shown falling out of.
make this passeggiata part of your sightseeing.Now walk along the river to Ognissanti. The river
Here’s how: Let’s say it is anis in full beauty right now. Don’t forget
hour or two before sunset. You have alreadyto notice how the light shines through the cupola
been to see the Uffizi and Michelangelo’sof the church of San Frediano di Cestello. Go into
David and the Palazzo Pitti. Now it is time to enjoythe Cenacolo of Oginissanti and look at the
the passeggiata. Start yours with a quick stop toGhirlandaio.
see one of the most unusual and beautiful